FRENCH FRIDAYS: A CAKE FOR THE AGES
“If my friend Claudine Martina, a teacher from Angers, had given me this recipe years ago, my baking career would have ended — I would simply have found a way to use this recipe for just about everything.” Dorie Greenspan
This week’s French Friday’s with Dorie recipe choice is the heavenly dessert, Visitandine, named for the Order of Visitation, a French religious order founded in 1610. Like the cloistered, contemplative nuns it was named after, this spongy one-layer cake is plain, simple and sits quietly. Competing against a rich German-Chocolate Torte or a splashy Almond Sponge Roulade, it would probably lose. But if you are wise enough to return and taste again, you’ve won a friend forever.
Although Dorie suggests doubling this recipe for more layers and versatility, I baked one thin cake in my 8” springform pan. Since I’m trying to be more creative with leftovers, wasting less food, this recipe leant itself perfectly to that challenge. (Thank you, thrifty Sisters.) I followed the recipe as written but did, at Dorie’s suggestion, brown the butter, turning it into beurre noisette. I definitely could taste the hints of caramel and hazelnut that beurre noisette represents. Here, in pictures, is my week of Visitandine, all different but delicious versions of one small white cake. Then, read on, there’s more leftover about leftovers.
When my blogging colleagues Susan and John Lester were here recently, we maintained an on-going, onesubjectrunningintoanothersubject, conversation. About food and wine. About books and films. About careers. And, about my nemesis, leftovers and waste. Admittedly, I am a by-the-book, non-imaginative cook. I try hard but it’s very seldom that I crawl out on a foodie limb. Sprinkling Sriracha Sea Salt (Gracias, Ms. Puerto Rico) on french fries or Sale Ae Tartufo Estivo (Grazie, Grauers) on scrambled eggs are my go-wild moments.
To help my cause I coerced the Lesters into playing a game. I went to my fridge and took an inventory of leftovers – scallops, puff pastry and Petrale sole, left from our visit to my neighborhood Sea Chest restaurant. Susan also glanced at my fruit bowl (full) and vegetable bin (a good inventory). With those ingredients in mind they bounced menu ideas back and forth, one suggestion bringing on another. I laughed and listened. Just for this conversation alone, they’ve earned another invitation for next year. “Susan and John, come early, stay longer and, if the drought restrictions are lifted, I will even let you shower.”
The true test in how I fared with Leftovers 101 is the result. I made a frittata with the Petrale Sole which I ate for breakfast and two lunches. Since they also left their fish leftovers from the Sea Chest with me, I made a Smoky Fish Chowder from a recent Melissa Clark “What’s for Dinner” column in The New York Times. (Not Pictured)
With the extra scallops from my FFWD Scallop and Onion Tartes Fines, I made scallops, bacon and asparagus spaghetti. I wish there had been more leftovers in this leftover.
Like the Lesters, I also had an extra sheet of puff pastry from our FFWD Tartes Fines. I baked John’s Cognac Caramel Apple Tarte Tatin (sans cognac).
How’d I do? A passing grade, maybe? Is it just me or will any of you confess to a leftover, waste or spoilage issue? I grew up in the era of the starving children in China. If there was food left on our plates, my brother and I were reminded of those poor kids. I still feel guilty, guilty, guilty about a wilted, spoiled or discarded anything. French Fridays with Dorie is an international cooking group working its way through Dorie Greenspan’s Around my French Table, more than 300 recipes from my home to yours. The recipe for Visitandine is here. To see how many layers my colleagues baked this week, check out our FFWD site.