Tuesday, December 8, Galápagos Islands
Having just finished hiking the craggy volcanic peninsula of Punta Espinosa on Fernandina Island, I wandered back to the panga to shuttle to our boat. As I rounded a blind curve I almost stumbled into this adorable brown bundle of fluff. Obviously his mother had hidden him under the bush’s branches to go in search of food. A scooch here, a wiggle-and-crawl there, had positioned this tiny pup on a human pathway.
GIANT TORTOISE with a dome-shaped shell. Since humans arrived in 1535, several hundred thousand tortoises have been killed and eaten. Ever the survivor, today there are arguably 20,000 of these magnificent creatures, protected and roaming in wild habitats.
If I’d had a can of sardines or anchovies this little guy would have followed me anywhere. Despite those big brown eyes locked on mine, I carefully stepped back, slowly walking away. This was but one of countless encounters during my 11-day trip to Galápagos, an Ecuadorian archipelago located 600 miles west of South America’s mainland. Although my photos highlight what I saw, I’m also sharing impressions from a journey that exceeded all expectations.
At Flour Beach, Floreana Island, we spotted sea turtles nests and watched small rays playing in the surf. Wendy, Carrie and Hazel (L to R)
Galapagos is Blue-footed Booby heaven.
THE JOURNEY – People
How many times have you heard someone remark, “I’m just not a tour person,” or “I will never go on a cruise.”
We shuttled back and forth to the islands on this panga.
Let’s not count how often I’ve muttered those words but this month I joined a tour that was a cruise. As with any group activity, how people interact greatly impact the outcome. Miraculously our pack of twelve clicked. At the initial gathering I learned that 5 of us were molecular geneticists, scientists who study the structure and function of genes. Gulp! Gulp! This raised the bar a bit. As they introduced themselves, my friend, Wendy Weaver, whispered to me, “I’m a travel agent. What do you do?” I whispered back, “I write a food blog.”
Sally Lightfoot crab. Note the angled shell which provides Sally an anchor to stand in the heavy surf.
I’ve asked Betsy, our on-board artist, to weave scarves for Wendy and me using Sally Lightfoot’s gorgeous colors.
Southern hospitality was well-represented by Lynn and Carrie Graugnard, a sugar cane farmer and nurse who live in Louisiana. Lynn, a lifelong fisherman, is not only knowledgeable but was spot on in noticing any underwater movement. Without him, I’d have missed seeing three kinds of sharks, Golden rays, countless Green Sea Turtles and fish. Carrie was the go-to woman for all ailments, real or imagined. Artist Betsy Blumenthal, a weaver and fellow Coloradan, enhanced our color consciousness.
This marine iguana is the only marine iguana species in the world.
Author Dean King was gathering research for a book on the acclaimed Admiral David Farragut. During the war of 1812 Farragut was an 11-year old midshipmen on the USS Essex which battled the British in the Galápagos area. He was joined by his 21-year-old daughter, Hazel, who was just ending a 2 month trip to Peru. Hazel was a breath of fresh air and our only Spanish speaker.
The Nazca Booby is another booby albeit not as famous as his blue-footed brethern.
Wendy Weaver, Michael’s and my friend and travel agent since moving to Aspen, invited me to join this adventure. She and I were constant hiking companions during my earlier Aspen days. We had time to rekindle our friendship. A trip bonus.
The Magnificent Frigatebird, Mom, Dad and the babies.
THE JOURNEY – Itinerary
The Integrity
Our vessel for the trip was Integrity, a handsome 141-foot yacht. Its crew of eleven young men made the trip comfortable and safe. Each day the chef and sous chef rolled out delicious meals and snacks from their tiny kitchen. The local fish, fresh fruits and homemade ice cream were 5-star. Our panga drivers expertly navigated rough waters, managing to get us in-and-out of the raft safely. It once took 3 strong men to pull me into the panga. Graceful, I was not.
On many mornings I woke up early, grabbed a cup of coffee and went to the top deck to welcome the sun. Sometimes I had company waiting for me.
The bartender introduced me to Caipirinhas, Brazil’s national cocktail. Made with cachaça, sugar and lime and more tasty than a gin and tonic, I became a convert. In fact we drank so many Caipirinhas that one of the crew had to make an emergency run to another ship for limes!
When Wendy dropped her iPhone in the ocean (DISASTER), I ran to the kitchen to grab a bag of rice. The chef is pouring me the rice while the sous chef is slicing onions. He never once glanced at the cutting board!
Patricia Stucki, our naturalist, was born in Switzerland but has lived on Galápagos for 20 years. She speaks 6 different languages, is extremely knowledgeable and can’t spell r-e-s-t or r-e-l-a-x. No one complained.
Our guide had several interesting tattoos. This is a Hammerhead Shark which I later saw.
Which is your favorite?
Each morning at 6:00am wake-up music – yeah, just like the astronauts – started our day. By 9:00 pm, following a slideshow and dinner, I was done! At night we traveled to a new island. Our non-stop days were artfully scheduled with AM and PM hikes/adventures, panga cruises through mangrove lagoons and snorkeling. The wildlife was amazing and, each memory, unforgettable.
Every evening 10 to 20 Frigatebirds would follow our ship.
About the snorkeling. I did it. Three times. Besides seeing gorgeous fish, I swam with Green Sea Turtles and a Galápagos Fur Seal. On my third snorkeling excursion the ocean was rough. Since swimming is not my forté, I couldn’t get past the current and kept being pushed into the reef, ornery-looking volcanic rock. Finally Dean saw I needed help, swam over and grabbed me, pulling me away from those damn rocks. Traumatized may be the right word here.
Our last day in the Galapagos…
The Galápagos Islands are probably the most famous wildlife-watching destination in the world. And no wonder – it’s almost impossible to exaggerate the sheer spectacle of the place that provided inspiration for Charles Darwin’s ground-breaking theory of natural selection. Mark Carwardine
That’s it, folks. (A Galapagos land iguana)
Mary, I’ve been wondering how the trip was going and watching for your post. It sounds every bit as exciting as I imagined it to be. The bird watching alone would be worth the trip I think! I had no idea there were different kinds of bobbies, not just blue footed ones. What an adventure! So glad you did it.
I loved reading about your adventures and seeing those pictures of your special friends. I relived my trip through your eyes. I knew you’d love it. I told you so 🙂
Mary your adventure is beyond amazing. The pictures are stunning. I just love that seals (?) were on the deck of your boat in the morning. I am such a fan of reptiles.. the ignanas are so prehistoric… absolutely amazing, and what an interesting group of travelers to share your journey.
What a success! You did it, even the snorkeling. Your photos are wonderful, the birding looks amazing, the whole trip looks spectacular. So glad it even exceeded expectations.
Wow is all I can say. What a grand adventure for you! Since I’ve known you since childhood, I must admit I’m most impressed by your swimming experiences. Thanks for the report!
Hi Mary,
Love your blog! Meeting you and spending a week with you in the Galápagos was an experience Lynn and I will never forget. Your kindness and enthusiasian was contagious! It truly was the trip of a lifetime!
P.S. Our house just stopped rocking side to side yesterday!
Happy Holidays,
Carrie
As a food blogger ~ you did us proud! Amazing roundup of your fantastic experience! Yeahhh Three Times Snorkeling! Wonderbar! Two Thumbs Up, Mary!
Mary…just got finished dining with Cathy and Fred and saw their around the world pix…but alas NO CRITTERS.
Your pictures are over the top fabulous. How wonderful that you learned to be so expert with your POwershot. I personally am now in love with Blue Footed Booby(s) is the plural Boobies and I think I would like to remodel my bedroom in that color scheme.
We are planning our trip now following in your footsteps as well as Darwin!
What a great adventure you were on and I am so happy for you.
Hugs, Rocks
Mary, What an amazing trip! Can’t wait until we see you in person to exchange stories. Miss you bunches. Have the merriest of merries and my 2016 be the best year ever. Love, Cathy
Fabulous, Mary! Thanks for taking us along! Your photos are stunning.
xoxo
What a wonderful adventure you’ve had. I know you’ve made memories that will last a lifetime. Love all these pictures, they speak a thousand words!
I love your description of your amazing trip. I knew that it would be fabulous.
Oh my goodness Mary, this was too good to read alone so my grandson looked over checking out your fascinating photos while trying to identify them, most of which he did. What a fabulous trip and you look filled with great happiness in the journey, as do your companions! The cruise looks and sounds spectacular. And may our next recipe be one of a Caipirinha! Please, please, please! PS. I thought you were going to Paris, imagine my surprise.
Mary, Hazel and I so enjoyed getting to know you and Wendy in the Galapagos. It was a privilege to be able to grab your hand in the choppy waters of Day 3. You would have been just fine, however, as you are one strong woman! Your success in the big waters is one of the best stories of the trip. Thanks for sharing these fabulous photographs. They put my thousand iPhone shots to shame. Keep on snorklin’! Dean
Looks like you had an amazing time. Congratulations on snorkeling. Love the pictures and look forward to hearing more about your trip.
A trip of a lifetime!!! I knew you’d conquer your fears and get in the water—and thank goodness a guardian angel was watching over you. Well done, my friend! xo
Mary….what can I say! Stunning photos (photographer is your second career) and I felt like I was there with the commentary. So glad you posted it!! Like many others, I wondered how the trip was going (clearly fabulous!!!!!!!)
Oh, Mary. Love, love, love this.
I know another person who can not spell the word R-e-l-a-x… (M-a-r-y).
I am glad you survived snorkeling and the caprihinas. (If you and Joe are ever in the same room again, you should ask him about the ones he had in Brazil. He can’t even look at them anymore 🙂 )
Happy holidays – XO.
Mary, what a fantastic adventure, I am so happy that you were able to do it. Your photos are gorgeous
and the way you describe everything makes me wish I was with you. (Except for snorkeling) Have a
wonderful holiday, not sure where you are going to spend it, but enjoy.
What a marvellous trip, and such lovely photos!
Hi Mary, the Galapagos are on my bucket list, even more so after reading this post……….., love all the animals, looks like paradise.
What a fantastic adventure. And those gorgeous photos….wow!
I wish you and your family a very happy and healthy new year. “See” you in 2016.
Mary, such a wonderful adventure! Swimming has never been my forte either…you are quite brave to have overcome your fear!
My son and his family were so taken by the beauty of the Galapagos. My grandsons have such wonderful memories of all the wildlife they saw. The giant turtles were a huge hit with them!
Gorgeous photos! Hugs!
I’m so glad you did the snorkelling and that your trip was as wonderful as you’d hoped. Your photos are fantastic! I especially love the first photo – that pup is a heartbreaker.
I got your lovely card today. Thank you so much for your kind words. I love reading your blog and keeping up with all your adventures.