SHOWTIME: ZIN FEST & POULET à la MOUTARDE

SHOWTIME: ZIN FEST & POULET à la MOUTARDE

COOKING-THE_COVER

COOKING-THE_COVER

of David Lebovitz's "My Paris Kitchen" cookbook

of David Lebovitz’s “My Paris Kitchen” cookbook

If weeks had titles, the past one would be called Best Day Ever Week. Do you experience those? Each day gets better and better. Not so often? I get that. Me, too. I have droughts. So when seven great days in a row land in your lap, it’s okay to whoop and holler and buy a new shade of lipstick. I’m all over coral-poppy tones this Spring/Summer.

We're up and out to Vintage Paso: a celebration of the 'Zins and Wild Wines of Paso Robles.'

We’re up and out to Vintage Paso: a celebration of the ‘Zins and Wild Wines of Paso Robles.’

The highlight of a week filled with a pontoon boat harbor cruise on Morro Bay, daily hikes and birding, exploring Cal Poly, the public university in nearby San Luis Obispo, and walking to San Simeon, was Vintage Paso. It’s a weekend when 140 local wineries open their gates to celebrate ‘Zinfandel and the other Wild Wines of Paso Robles.‘ Like last year, my friends from southern California, John and Susan Lester, who blog at Create Amazing Meals, were joining me. If you recall, the Lesters and I connected three years ago through French Fridays with Dorie.

Everyone has their station and duties. I admit it. John did the heavy lifting for this meal.

Everyone has their station and duties. I admit it. John did the heavy lifting for this meal.

 Carottes Râpées, a recipe of Dorie Greenspan's, is finished and table-ready.

Carottes Râpées, a recipe of Dorie Greenspan’s, is finished and table-ready.

I visited them in February when we not only went to the Channel Islands but also made Saturday night’s meal together. Admittedly, I plead guilty to couple envy as I watched them navigate through their kitchen chores. More fun than cooking alone, I assure you. Hey, let’s do that again. Saturday night dinner at chez Hirsch. Susan and John were game. This time it was my turn to plan the menu, get the ingredients on board, set the table and organize the evening.

Step Aside, David Lebovitz.

Step Aside, David Lebovitz.

We forced ourselves to drink more wine. This  is a Mourvedre-based dry rosé called Dianthus 2014 by Tablas Creek Vineyard.

We forced ourselves to drink more wine. This is a Mourvedre-based dry rosé called Dianthus 2014 by Tablas Creek Vineyard.

Although this is a weekend told more beautifully through pictures, you first need the menu. Last April I received my preordered copy of David Lebovitz’s “My Paris Kitchen.” Like so many others, it occupied my kitchen cookbook shelf of neglect. So I packed it for my winter in Cambria. When I recently read that author Kate Christensen called Lebovitz’s 100 recipes ‘swoon-and-drool-worthy.’ I decided it was time to give that book some food love.

Dinnertime.

Dinnertime.

Dessert: Mrs. Lester's Chocolate Chip Cookies. She shared the recipe with me. I'll share it with you.

Dessert: Mrs. Lester’s Chocolate Chip Cookies. She shared the recipe with me. I’ll share it with you.

That’s why we cooked-the-cover, Poulet à la Moutarde, chicken with mustard. To accompany this magnificent one-pan entrée, we made Dorie’s classic Carottes Râpées, a grated carrot salad tossed with raisins and walnuts. (Both recipes are printed below.) We’ll credit the tasty pommes frites and warm French baguettes to Monsieur Trader Joe. During our day’s wineries journey we chose a Tablas Creek French-style Rosé. John, the expert on such matters, ‘thought its flavor would hold up against the mustard background flavor of the sauce as well as the smoked bacon.’ (He was right.) For the perfect dessert Susan surprised this cookie monster with her famous chocolate chip cookies.

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The verdict? We swooned. We drooled. We relished each unbelievably tender and flavorful morsel. The Carottes Râpées, a perfect choice. The pommes frites, of course. Warm baguette slices soaked with sauce, messy. The chocolate chip cookies, as delicious as they look. We were very pleased with ourselves, having pulled off this ambitious evening meal. (Remembering we’d been tasting wine all day.) A merci mille fois to the talented Dorie Greenspan and David Lebovitz who helped make it happen.

On our Sunday morning antiquing junket, I scored a food styling and entertaining prop, an old copper escargot/egg poaching pan.  Susan and John found antique glassware.

On our Sunday morning antiquing junket, I scored a food styling and entertaining prop, an old copper escargot/egg poaching pan. Susan and John found antique glassware.

Saying our goodbyes until next Winter.

Saying our goodbyes until next Winter.

POULET à la MOUTARDE by David Lebovitz, My Paris Kitchen

4-8 Servings

INGREDIENTS

1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1/4 teaspoon sweet or smoked paprika

Freshly ground black pepper

3/4 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt

8 pieces bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs and legs 

1 cup diced smoked thick-cut bacon

1 small onion, finely diced

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves (may substitute 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme)

Olive oil (optional)

1 cup dry white wine

1 tablespoon mustard seeds or grainy mustard

2 to 3 tablespoons crème fraîche or heavy cream

Warm water (optional)

Finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish


DIRECTIONS

1. Mix 1/2 cup of the Dijon mustard in a bowl with the paprika, a few generous grinds of pepper and the salt. Toss the chicken pieces in the mustard mixture, lifting the skin and rubbing some of the mixture underneath.

2. Heat a large, wide skillet with a cover, or a Dutch oven, over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and cook, stirring frequently, until it is cooked through and just starting to brown. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the bacon pieces from the pan and drain on paper towels. Drain all but 1 tablespoon of fat from the skillet.

3. Add the onion and stir to coat. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring a few times, until the onion is softened and mostly translucent. Stir in the thyme; cook for a few minutes, until fragrant, then scrape the cooked onion into a large bowl.

4. Add a little olive oil to the pan, if necessary. Place the chicken pieces in the pan in a single layer. If they don’t fit, work in two batches. Cook over medium-high heat, ,browning them well on one side. Flip them over and brown them on the other side. Cook until nicely browned, could be 20 minutes or so.

5. Transfer the chicken to the bowl with the onion. Add the wine to the hot pan. Use a sturdy, flat utensil to dislodge any browned bits from the bottom of the skillet. Return ALL the chicken pieces to the pan along with the onion mixture and bacon. Cover and cook over low to medium heat turning the chicken pieces over a few times during cooking, about 15 minutes. To check for doneness, insert the sharp tip of a knife into the meat next to the thigh bone; if the meat is still pink, cook for a few more minutes.

6. When the chicken is thoroughly cooked, remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the remaining 3 tablespoons of Dijon mustard, the mustard seeds and the crème fraîche or heavy cream to form a sauce. If it seems too thick, you can thin it with a little warm water. Sprinkle chopped parsley over the top. Serve.


CAROTTES RÂPÉES
by Dorie Greenspan, Around My French Table

6 Servings

1 pound carrots, peeled and trimmed

2 Tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 Tablespoon honey
1/4 cup cider vinegar
1/2 cup of mild oil, canola or grapeseed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Moist, plump currants or raisins
Coarsely chopped walnuts
Chopped fresh parsley,

1. Grate the carrots, using a box grater or food processor. Drain any excess moisture from the grated carrots.

2. In a small jar or processor or bowl and whisk, mix the mustard, honey, cider vinegar and oil together. Season with salt and pepper. Whir or shake until blended into a thick, smooth vinaigrette.

3. Toss the carrots with currants or raisins and nuts.

4. Just before serving, pour on the dressing and toss well. Adjust the salt and pepper, if needed. Add the parsley.

FRENCH FRIDAYS: NAPOLEON & LISTS

FRENCH FRIDAYS: NAPOLEON & LISTS

In the spirit of full disclosure I’m admitting to List Addiction. My favorites are Self-improvement Lists like How To Strengthen Your Core: 8 Steps; Ten Tricks to Look 7 Years Younger or 9 Ways to Improve Your Chances of Retiring by 55. There are even audiobooks of Lists, 100 Ways to Simplify Your Life. I usually keep all that great advice to myself but this week I discovered a List that must be shared: Six Mini-habits That Can Drastically Change Your Life by blogger Rizwan Aseem.

I used beef instead of veal for this week's French Friday's recipe, Beef Marengo

I used beef instead of veal for this week’s French Friday’s recipe, Beef Marengo.

Before I drastically change lives, however, I am going to feed you. This week’s French Fridays recipe is Veal Marengo, a dish created in 1800 by Napoleon Bonaparte’s chef to honor his boss’ success at the Battle of Marengo. For those of you unfamiliar with that battle, the French beat the Austrians on Italian soil. That was a very big deal, deserving of a celebratory entrée and commemorated by Puccini’s three-act opera, Tosca

Unlike Napoleon, I don’t like veal. I substituted beef. If you prefer chicken, that works wonderfully also. Supposedly, Marengo, an upscaled version of stew, was created with food supplies available on the battlefield… meat, onions, tomatoes, mushrooms and white wine. Someone found a few potatoes and a French classic which has endured for over 200 years was born.

The top-of-the-stove duties are completed and the stew is ready for the oven.

The top-of-the-stove duties are completed and the stew is ready for the oven.

Veal (Beef, Chicken) Marengo, with a salad and crusty bread, is an ample and adaptable meal. I had freshly harvested leeks in my fridge so substituted them for onions. After refreshing a package of exotic mushrooms, I used them instead of ordinary ones. What makes this recipe so useful is its adaptability. Any vegetable you have in the fridge will work with your choice of meat, onions, tomatoes and wine. You will find the recipe, have fun with it, here.

Dorie suggests putting parchment paper between the pan and the lid to keep the liquids from evaporating. A new technique that worked.

Dorie suggests putting parchment paper between the pan and the lid to keep the liquids from evaporating. A new technique that worked.

Now back to drastically changing your life. The best thing about this List is you’re probably doing half of them already. To my thinking, that’s instant success. Your self-esteem is rising rapidly. You’re halfway home.

Habit #1: Make your bed shortly after you wake up in the morning.

You’ve finished a daily task immediately, leaving a neat, tidy bed to return to at night. When you return home in the evening, you’re weary. Maybe some efforts haven’t gone your way. The end of the day not only brings relief but also an inviting, comfortable bed.

Habit #2: Put things back where you’ve found them.

When you return things to their proper places you drastically clear clutter in your life. What is more important, when you need them again, they will be there.

Habit #3: Pick up clutter before you go to sleep at night.

Practice #2 so this habit will not swallow up your time. If you wake up to messy and cluttered, you wake up grumpy. You just do.

Last week-end was cold and blustery. It was perfectfor my Beef Marengo menu but not so nice for the Great Egret.

Last week-end was cold and blustery. It was perfect for my Beef Marengo menu but not so nice for the Great Egret.

Habit #4: Dress slightly better than the occasion calls for.

My daughter, Melissa, was once asked for the best advice her mother ever gave her. She had two answers. “The advice I now most appreciate from my mother,” Melissa said, “I hated while growing up. My mother insisted upon handwritten, timely thank-you notes. Her philosophy was: if someone did something nice for you, they needed to be thanked in writing, appreciating not only the gift, but the giver, and helping me realize how lucky I was to have both.”

The second piece of advice I gave her was when she left the house, wherever she was going, to look nice, to be presentable, showing respect. “My mother’s reasoning,” she said, “was if you’re dressed for the part, whatever it may be, you walk out the front door, confident, not having to think or worry about it.”

Habit #5: Be consistently enthusiastic and optimistic.

“You won’t even notice this,” Aseem writes, “but you’ll wake up happier, and with more energy and a skip in your step.”

Habit #6: Plan your day on a post-it note.

This is my favorite, unchartered territory for me. I’m giving it a month

Here’s how the post-it technique works. Whatever projects you have to do tomorrow, choose only the five that will make the most impact on your professional and personal life. Everything else goes on the back burner, in the drawer, forgotten for another day. Write them on a post-it. Then, post it. Check them off as you knock them off. At the end of the day, mission accomplished. Your mind, on most days, will no longer need to focus on the things you didn’t get done.

These shorebirds are hunkering down on a dark and gloomy Sunday.

These shorebirds are hunkering down on a dark and gloomy Sunday.

My report card is #1, #4, #5, A-Plus. #2 and #3, C to C-. I’m not a slob but I plead guilty to messy. If I followed #2, I would not need 10 pair of glasses scattered around my house. If I followed #3, I would not need to devote three hours tomorrow morning to picking up my house. Right now, as I’m heating up Beef Marengo for tonight’s dinner, I’m thinking about tomorrow’s first post-it. And also wanting to remind you that French Fridays with Dorie is an international group of food bloggers who are cooking their way through Dorie Greenspan’s Around My French Table cookbook. You can visit the FFWD site here.

FFWD: ONIONS + ANCHOVIES + OLIVES

FFWD: ONIONS + ANCHOVIES + OLIVES

Pissaladière, my French Fridays with Dorie recipe choice this week.

Pissaladière, my French Fridays with Dorie recipe choice this week.

Last Tuesday evening my Aspen friend, Luky, telephoned to check in and check up on me. As usual, we chitter-chattered, catching up on her news and mine. It was all good until she asked, “So, what did you do today?”

“I spent the afternoon at the cemetery,” I replied. “Birding.”

Silence. Thirty seconds of dead silence.

“You spent all afternoon alone at the cemetery?” she asked.

“Yeah,” I replied.

“Birding,” she stated emphatically.

I knew where she was headed with this, Readers, so I started to laugh. Luky did not.

“Mary,” she said, gravely.”This is not good. Not good at all. I’m serious. You are alone way too much.”

“I had fun, Luky,” I insisted. “Really I did.”

That remark just added fuel to the fire although she was somewhat amused. “You pack your bags right now,” she ordered, “and come home. You need to come home.”

The Community of Cambria, California's cemetery, established in 1870.

The Community of Cambria, California’s cemetery, established in 1870.

Realizing she was on a mission – I’ve know this woman for almost thirty years – we worked out a compromise. Since I’d be leaving Cambria in 3 weeks anyway, I would stay only if we talked frequently. I suggested sending daily e-mails but that was a No Go. Luky and I cut a deal. Telephone calls and no more cemeteries.

This cemetery resident, a Northern Flicker, is hiding from me.

This cemetery resident, a Northern Flicker, is hiding from me.

We’ll return to the subject of cemeteries later but that conversation put a big smile on my face yesterday when I was making Pissaladière, my French Fridays recipe choice this week. Pissaladière, with its filling of caramelized onions, anchovies, garlic and black niçoise olives, is the Côte d’Azur’s version of pizza. The difference is in its rectangular shape, salty, intense flavor, and thinness of crust. Pissaladière is a French classic and the quintessential street food in Nice.

Six onions, quite easily thinly sliced with an Oxo hand-held Mandoline.

Six onions, quite easily thinly sliced with an Oxo hand-held Mandoline.

I’m not unfamiliar with Pissaladière and have enjoyed it both here and in France. However, I’ve never made it myself. To my mind, it seemed complicated. I’m delighted, after following Dorie’s recipe in “Around My French Table, more than 300 recipes from my home to yours,” to realize it is not. My first effort worked.

The caramelized onions look just about right.

The caramelized onions look just about right.

Serve it hot, warm or at room temperature. For breakfast this morning, I tried the cold version. Still tasty. It’s perfect for lunch or dinner, with salad. A meal. My preference is to feature it as a stand-alone appetizer. Small squares. Hand food. Truthfully, I’ve always thought Pissaladière to be very la de da.

Oven-ready

Oven-ready

The onion mixture can be caramelized a day ahead and refrigerated. For the crust, make the same favorite dough recipe you use for savory tarts or pizzas. Frazzled and short on time? Grab your sunglasses and slink into your favorite grocery store to buy ready-made fresh pizza dough. The secret is to stretch or roll the dough until it’s about 10 x 14 inches and very, very thin. You will find Dorie’s recipe for her delicious filling below.

Add the anchovies and olives for the last 5 minutes of cooking time.

Add the anchovies and olives for the last 5 minutes of cooking time.

Now let’s return to Luky and our cemetery discussion. Who even thinks about cemeteries until you’re forced into a situation where you must? But Tuesday night, before I fell asleep, I found myself making a mental list of some cemeteries I’ve visited. My List gave me pause.

 Molière's tomb at the Père Lachaise Cemetery

Molière’s tomb at the Père Lachaise Cemetery

First and foremost, I’ve visited Arlington National Cemetery in Virginia where Presidents John F. Kennedy and President William Howard Taft are buried. More than 400,000 others, so many recognizable notables, are buried there. We’ve been to Pearl Harbor where the USS Arizona is an active U.S. military cemetery. After going to Normandy one never forgets Cimetière américain de Normandie in Colleville-sur-Mer, France.

Singer Edith Piaf's gravesite in the Pere Lachaise cemetery

Singer Edith Piaf’s gravesite in the Pere Lachaise cemetery

Then, there’s the famous Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris, site of three WWI memorials and resting place of many French cultural icons. If you’ve visited New Orleans, you’ve undoubtedly seen the elaborate stone crypts and mausoleums that are built above ground. I’ve just recently visited the presidential libraries where Presidents Reagan, Nixon, Eisenhower and Truman are buried.

Kit Carson's Tombstone in Taos

Kit Carson’s Tombstone in Taos

Closer to home, Michael and I once spent the day in Leadville, Colorado, celebrating the restoration of the Hebrew Cemetery established there in 1880. Last year, in Taos, I found the frontiersman Kit Carson’s tombstone. North of Taos are the deteriorating grave sites of the Pueblo de Taos, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Doc Holiday, gambler, rogue and Wyatt Earp’s pal is buried at Pioneer Cemetery in nearby Glenwood Springs. Donna Chase and I both noticed his tombstone while, uh, on an Audubon birding field trip.

The Pueblo de Taos graveyard

The Pueblo de Taos graveyard

I am fortunate to live one block from Ute Cemetery, Aspen’s oldest graveyard established around 1880. On the National List of Historic Places, it’s been completely restored in a remarkably wild and abandoned-looking manner. There are paths winding through the 5-acres that hold 200 marked and unmarked graves. Every so often, I grab my coffee cup and walk through the cemetery, enjoying its silence, wildflowers and imagining the lives these early settlers and Civil War veterans lived.

Doc Holiday's tombstone in Glenwood Springs, Colorado

Doc Holiday’s tombstone in Glenwood Springs, Colorado

You have your own thoughts and experiences dealing with a subject not often discussed. Thank you for allowing me to share mine. Now let me share Dorie’s recipe for Pissaladière which, hopefully, you will want to share with your friends.

Remembering Civil War veterans at Ute Cemetery in Aspen

Remembering Civil War veterans at Ute Cemetery in Aspen

PISSALADIÈRE by Dorie Greenspan

Makes 6 servings

INGREDIENTS for ONION TOPPING

2 Tbs. olive oil
6 medium onions, halved and thinly sliced (I used a mandoline.)
1 thyme sprig
1 bay leaf
About 12 good-quality anchovies packed in oil
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
About 12 Niçoise olives, pitted or not

DIRECTIONS

1. Pour the olive oil into a large skillet and warm it over low heat. Toss in the onions, thyme, and bay leaf, stirring to coat everything with oil, then cook, stirring often, until the onions are translucent, soft, and golden, about 45 minutes to an hour, maybe more—this isn’t a job you should rush.

2. While the onions are cooking, chop 6 of the anchovies. When the onions are cooked, pull the pan from the heat, stir in the anchovies, which will dissolve into the onions. Season lightly with sea salt and generously with pepper.

3. Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 450°F.

4. Line a large baking sheet lined with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper.

5. Roll the dough out on a floured surface until it is about 10 x 14 inches. The exact size of the rectangle isn’t really important—what you’re going for is thinness. Transfer the dough to the baking sheet and top it with the onion mixture, leaving a scant inch of dough around the edges bare.

6. Bake the Pissaladière for about 20 minutes, or until the dough is golden. Pull the pan from the oven, decorate the top with the olives and remaining anchovies, and bake the Pissaladière for 5 minutes more, just to warm the new additions. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

Make Ahead Tips
The onions can be made up to 1 day ahead and refrigerated. Once made, the Pissaladière can be kept at room temperature for a few hours.

French Fridays with Dorie is an international group of food bloggers who are cooking their way through Dorie Greenspan’s Around My French Table cookbook. You can visit the FFWD site here.

FRENCH FRIDAYS:  LOBSTER TAILS & TRAVEL TALES

FRENCH FRIDAYS: LOBSTER TAILS & TRAVEL TALES

VALENTINE’S DAY DINNER

Tag Cloud for Vanilla-Butter-Braised Lobster: Exquisite. Delicate. Aromatic. Heavenly.

Tag Cloud for Vanilla-Butter-Braised Lobster: Exquisite. Delicate. Aromatic. Heavenly.

How often do you serve lobster for dinner? My answer is not very. Geographically a born-and-bred Iowa girl, lobster was not a food choice in my youth. When I was a working girl, wife and mother, lobster was not a food choice in my budget. As I became more worldly and sophisticated (using the sarcasm font), lobster was a restaurant choice but always the priciest option. Since my Mother taught me to never order the most expensive item on the menu, lobster was not an option. Period.

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I approached this week’s FFWD’s recipe choice, Vanilla-Butter-Braised Lobster, with trepidation. How the heck was I going to pull this off? That’s when Susan and John Lester, longtime French Fridays colleagues, threw a lifeline, inviting me to spend Valentine’s Day Weekend with them in southern California. Last Saturday evening, we enjoyed an elegant, delicious dinner: Vanilla-Butter-Braised Lobster served on a bed of Risotto alla Milanese (Risotto with Parmesan & Saffron), and lemon-steamed spinach. The wine, Chevalier de Bayard Blanc, a perfect choice. For dessert, See’s chocolate, a heart gift from John.

If you wish, freeze these in a plastic bag until you have enough seafood shells to make a flavorful broth.

If you wish, freeze these in a plastic bag until you have enough seafood shells to make a flavorful broth.

Basically lobster tails are precooked for 3 to 4 minutes in well-salted, boiling water before being separated, meat from shell. Now, clarify 6 sticks of butter. Holy Cow, that’s not happening in my kitchen. (Cut that amount in half.) We short-circuited the clarifying technique by slowly melting the butter, straining it through dampened cheesecloth before returning to the sauce pan. Scrape the pulp and seeds from two vanilla pods Add that, including the pods, to the butter. Warm the mixture to infuse the flavors before adding the lobsters. Cook for about 4 minutes before serving.

Spice Envy: Susan and John's Inventory.

Spice Envy: Susan and John’s Inventory.

Please link to Susan and John’s blog, Create Amazing Meals, for a more detailed version of this recipe.

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CALIFORNIA’S GALAPAGOS

It was only last year I discovered California’s Galapagos. Never mind that in 1976 this unique environment became part of the UNESCO International Biosphere Preserve Program. Never mind that in 1980 Congress established the very precious Channel Islands National Park and National Marine Sanctuary. Never mind that I maintain a continual pout because I haven’t yet visited Ecuador’s Galapagos Islands. Lesson learned, look in your own backyard.

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I shared this news flash with Melissa, my Cali daughter. “Oh, yeah,” she said, “there’s great scuba diving in the Channel Islands. Stephen and I are going there next year for our 25th wedding anniversary.

Then the Lester’s who live in Oxnard told me the boats to the Islands left from the Ventura harbor, a 10-minute drive from their home. “When you visit us, we’ll go,” they promised.

Keeping a promise made to me a year ago, Susan and I are ready to go aboard the Island Packers.

Keeping a promise made to me a year ago, Susan and I are ready to go aboard the Island Packers. John Lester Photo

Californians must be keeping the Channel Islands as their own well-kept secret because many of my friends were as clueless about these Islands as I. Right here and now, let’s put an end to that.

We watched hundreds  of dolphins swimming in the Santa Barbara Channel. Susan Lester Photo

We watched hundreds of dolphins swimming in the Santa Barbara Channel. Susan Lester Photo

Because pictures speak volumes, let me be brief. Last Saturday morning, following a 30-minute boat ride across Santa Barbara Channel during which we watched countless pods of Common Dolphins frolic while California Brown Pelicans, Western Gulls and Double-Crested Cormorants basked in the sun, we landed at Santa Cruz Island.

Seeing this little guy, the Island Fox, was the highlight of my trip. Endangered,  by 1999 their numbers had declined by 95%. They are slowly recovering. Each of the 5 islands has its own subspecies of the Island Fox. They are found nowhere else on earth.

Seeing this little guy, the Island Fox, was the highlight of my trip. Endangered, by 1999 their numbers had declined by 95%. They are slowly recovering. Each of the 5 islands has its own subspecies of the Island Fox. They are found nowhere else on earth.

Santa Cruz, about three times the size of Manhattan, is the largest of the five protected islands. On this particular island there are 600 plant species, 140 land birds, 11 mammal species, large colonies of nesting sea birds, breeding seals and sea lions, three amphibian and five reptile species. Due to millions of years of isolation some of these animals and plants are found only on this island as is true with each of the five landforms. Its cultural history is rich, having been home to the Chumash Indians for 10,000 years and European explorers for 150.

Wild mustard was in full bloom and gorgeously displayed on the island's interior hills. Susan Lester Photo

Wild mustard was in full bloom and gorgeously displayed on the island’s interior hills Susan Lester Photo.

These primitive and pristine islands seem wrapped in a cocoon of reverence. There’s an aura about these wild places. My fellow visitors, I sensed, were southern Californians. Young families. Kids, carrying enormous back packs, on weekend camping trips. The excursion is not for the faint of heart. After the boat landed, we had to scramble up a forbidding-looking iron ladder to reach the pier. There are no services on the islands which must explain the dearth of older tourists. However, the day was not long enough. I was sad to leave.

Hoping to return.

Hoping to return.

FRENCH FRIDAYS LUNCH

For the past four years I’ve virtually cooked-the-book with other French Fridays with Dorie colleagues. During those years, we’ve made an effort to also know each other personally. Thus, the Lester/Hirsch friendship. Susan invited the southern Cali “Doristas” for Sunday lunch. John made delicious pork carnitas tacos and served them with his very drinkable sangria. It was a 90-minute drive and effort for both Katie, a UCSB professor and Diane, a dietician/nutritionist, but a great time was had by all.

Susan, Katie, Diane and Mary , French Fridays with Dorie colleagues. (LtoR)

Susan, Katie, Diane and Mary , French Fridays with Dorie colleagues. John Lester Photo

French Fridays with Dorie is a international group cooking their way through Around My French Table, more than 300 recipes from my home to yours, written by Dorie Greenspan. Find our Link here.

FRENCH FRIDAYS: A DREAM VALENTINE’S DAY

FRENCH FRIDAYS: A DREAM VALENTINE’S DAY

Chicken Couscous, the French Fridays recipe this week. Serve it with Naan, a Persian flatbread.

Chicken Couscous, the French Fridays recipe this week. Serve it with Naan, a Persian flatbread.

More times than you might guess, someone says to me, “I’d like to have people to dinner but I can’t ever decide what to serve.”

While that may seem absurd, with all the cookbooks and blogosphere recipes available to us, choosing a menu can be daunting. After just checking my computer’s slow cooker folder, I found ninety-three untried recipes. My cookbooks are weighed down with must-try Post-Its. Italian Chef Giana Ballesteros wore a knockout dress on last week’s show, enticing me to print out her recipe as a make-now choice. (There’s logic there. Think about it.)

Readers, let’s solve this dilemma.

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Let me suggest you need a main course that is tasty, simple, do-ahead, a people-pleaser, caters to various food sensitivities, hits a price point that isn’t a budget buster and allows you to enjoy your party also. Although Michael and I entertained often, I never threw a dinner party together easily. Nervous wreck was the phrase. Once our guests arrived, however, it was party time. Promise you this, no one every enjoyed our gatherings more than Me.

This week’s French Fridays recipe choice, Chicken Couscous, hits all those buttons. Of the twelve chicken recipes Dorie included in “Around My French Table, more than 300 recipes from my home to yours,” this is my favorite. “Couscous is the name of both a teensy grained semolina pasta and the fragrantly spiced North African stew that’s served with it,” she reminds us. “It’s a congenial dish.”

Three cheers for anything that is congenial these days.

While you're making Chicken Couscous, you will enjoy the aroma from this mixture of spices and herbs.

While you’re making Chicken Couscous, you will enjoy the aroma from this mixture of spices and herbs.

First, let’s get this Chicken Couscous made. The recipe is printed below but we’ll walk the walk anyway. Mise en Place, Readers. That means to have all ingredients on your counter/in your fridge, prepared and ready to go before you begin. If you wish, the day earlier, mix together your spices: ginger, cumin, turmeric, saffron, cinnamon, garlic, salt and pepper. In a large Dutch oven heated with butter, add the chicken pieces (skin on) to the pot and sprinkle the spice/herb mix over the chicken. Lightly, lightly brown the chicken.

After browing the chicken,  add the brother and, then, most of the vegetables.

After browing the chicken, add the brother and, then, most of the vegetables.

Pour chicken broth into the pot, bringing it to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer while adding the leeks, onions, celery, carrots and turnips and cook about 15 minutes. Here’s when, if making early, you can separate the broth from the chicken and vegetables and refrigerate. Next, transfer 3 cups of broth to a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Pour in quick-cooking couscous, simmer gently for a minute, stir, turn off the heat and cover the pan for five minutes. To finish off the stew, drop in the zucchini (skins on) and chickpeas and cook about ten more minutes.

Buy Naan, a Persian flatbread, at your local grocery store. If not available look for another flatbread on the shelves.

Buy Naan, a Persian flatbread, at your local grocery store. If not available look for another flatbread on the shelves.

Tip: If your guests include Vegetarians, roast some of the same veggies, make additional couscous in vegetable broth and serve in the same manner. Get your guests to the table. Into ONE large bowl or plate, spoon the couscous with chicken and vegetables. With a ladle, add the broth. Serve this Chicken Couscous piping hot. Scatter small bowls of raisins, apricots, sliced almonds and harissa (optional) on the table.To accompany the couscous, look for packages of Naan, a Persian oven-baked flatbread, available in your grocery frozen section. Bring out your favorite wines and beers. For dessert, run by your local bakery, buy something luscious and, while you’re out, get a manicure.

I’ve always thought inviting people into my home for a homemade meal is the highest compliment I can offer a friendship. When you get one successful, delicious dinner gathering under your toque, it only gets easier.

Horned Grebe -  Grebes  appeared in the fossil record in the Late Oligocene or Early Miocene Period, around 23–25 MYA and were probably here earlier.  I see grebes here on the Central Coast and will most likely see even more on the Channel Islands.  Moonstone Beach, Cambria

Horned Grebe – Grebes appeared in the fossil record in the Late Oligocene or Early Miocene Period, around 23–25 MYA and were probably here earlier. I see grebes here on the Central Coast and will most likely see even more on the Channel Islands. Moonstone Beach, Cambria

John and Susan Lester, French Fridays with Dorie colleagues, have extended that offer of friendship, inviting me into their home this upcoming weekend. It’s no secret I wholeheartedly embrace the Valentine’s Day holiday. Susan decided, since I live nearby, I might enjoy spending it with them. As you’re reading this Post, I am making the three-hour trip to Oxnard from Cambria.

Common Loon, another prehistoric bird. There is a reason Loons and Grebes are the first two Families mentioned in every bird book. These beautiful creatures date almost before time itself.  Morro Bay Estuary

Common Loon, another prehistoric bird. There is a reason Loons and Grebes are the first two Families mentioned in every bird book. These beautiful creatures date almost before time itself. Morro Bay National Estuary

The Lesters have put together an ambitious itinerary. Sleeping and relaxing are not included. Among the planned activities, on Saturday they’re taking me to the Channel Islands. To those of you unfamiliar with this national treasure, think Galapagos Islands. Thanks to environmental groups and the state and federal governments, we will experience coastal southern California in the magnificence it once was. Like the Galapagos, the isolation of these five remarkable islands has allowed evolution to continue autonomously with its 600 plant species; 140 land birds, 11 land mammal species; three amphibian and five reptile species and large colonies of nesting seabirds, breeding seals, and sea lions, among the largesse.

Elephant Seal, male - I'm thinking this fellow is so weary because he's been around for such a long time! Piedras Blancas Rookery, San Simeon.

Elephant Seal, male – I’m thinking this fellow is so weary because he’s been around for such a long time! Piedras Blancas Rookery, San Simeon.

The Valentine’s Day of my dreams.

To see how my colleagues will celebrate Valentine’s Day, go here. French Fridays with Dorie is an international group of food bloggers who are cooking their way through Around my French Table, more than 300 recipes from my home to yours. Happy Heart Day, also, to all you loyal readers.

Chicken Couscous by Dorie Greenspan

INGREDIENTS

1 Tbs grated fresh ginger or 2 1/2 tsp ground ginger
 3/4 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp turmeric
1/4 – 1/2 tsp saffron threads, pinched between your fingers
1/8 tsp ground cinnamon
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Salt and Pepper to Taste
3 Tbs unsalted butter
1 chicken, about 4 pounds, pieces or chicken thighs, patted dry, at room temp
6 cups chicken broth
2 leeks, white and light green parts, split lengthwise, cut into 2-inch pieces
8 small white onions
2 celery stalks, trimmed, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
2 carrots, trimmed, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
2 medium turnips or potatoes, trimmed, peeled and quartered
1 1/2 cups quick-cooking couscous
2 slender zucchini, trimmed, cut into 2-inch pieces, SKIN ON
1 15-oz can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

FOR SERVING

Golden raisins, Dried Apricots, sliced Almonds, Harissa (optional)

DIRECTIONS:

1. Mix the spices together in a small bowl.

2. Melt butter in a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add chicken pieces (working in batches, if necessary) and scatter spice mix over top. Cook, turning pieces so they pick up the seasoning mix, just until they loose their raw texture. They don’t have to be browned.

3. Pour the broth in to the pot, increase the heat and bring to a boil. Lower to a simmer to add leeks, onions, celery, carrots and turnips or potatoes. Cook until vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper as needed.

4. Transfer 3 cups of broth to a saucepan and bring to a boil. Pour in the couscous and simmer for a minute. Turn off heat, cover and let stand for five minutes, or until the broth is fully absorbed.

5. Add the zucchini (with skin on) and chickpeas to the stew and cook until zucchini is tender, about 5 minutes.

6. Fluff the couscous with a fork and serve the stew over the couscous. Pour the extra broth into a pitcher to pass as the table. Serve the chicken couscous piping hot.

FRENCH FRIDAYS: CROQUANTS & AU REVOIR, JANVIER

FRENCH FRIDAYS: CROQUANTS & AU REVOIR, JANVIER

Croquants, this week's French Fridays with Dorie recipe choice.

Croquants, this week’s French Fridays with Dorie recipe choice.

There’s no reason to not take five minutes right now and read this blog. I guarantee you’ll want to run to your kitchen, pull out nuts (any kind), sugar, 2 eggs (whites only, freeze the yolks) and flour. Within ten minutes, no KitchenAid needed, you’ll have mounds of these little darlings on parchment-lined baking sheets ready to pop into the oven. No butter, oil, salt, extracts or leavening required.

Add egg whites to the sugar/nut mixture and blend.

Add egg whites to the sugar/nut mixture and blend.

Besides turning into Cookie Monster this week, my first month in Cambria officially ended. It’s been productive and quite wonderful. I hesitate to throw out those adjectives because I don’t want to whammy myself. Have you ever felt like that? It’s always seems whenever things are running smoothly, on an even keel, I relax, get complacent, a little cocky. Until things take a bad turn or two or three and I am forced to change gears. That’s just Life, isn’t it?

After the flour joins the party and is blended, the mixture turns thick.

After the flour joins the party and is blended, the mixture turns thick.

Michael’s last ten years were all bumps and bruises and disasters. While I did many things right in those ten years, I never handled those many crisis well. As I’ve often said, when my second grade teacher asked who wanted to be a nurse when they grew up, I never raised my hand. I was unequipped and lacked the knowledge, tools and DNA to be a caregiver. Oh, I tried, would smile and soldier on but no one ever mistook me for Florence Nightingale.

Bring on the heat.

Bring on the heat.

I wasn’t a total loser, however. I was all about running our affairs with their many complications and intricacies, keeping us afloat. Organization is my forté. Never underestimate the importance of that. When a critical issue had to be solved, I would seek advice and help. The final decision, however, was mine alone and I made it. I really never gave up hope we could beat this disease until Michael entered the Memory Care unit. I never cried much throughout this entire journey but that day I sat by his wheelchair and sobbed.

After removing the cookies from the oven,transfer the baking sheet to a cooling rack for 10 minutes.

After removing the cookies from the oven,transfer the baking sheet to a cooling rack for 10 minutes.

After Michael died, it was my job to create a Lifestyle for myself. This, I could do. I had the knowledge, tools and DNA to build a business. The business of living, if you will. The majority of spouses who become longtime caregivers can never reestablish a contented life. Either they do not have the energy or health or resources or will to jump back into life after so many years. It’s too overwhelming or they don’t know how.

Croquants are sold in speciality shops all over France.

Croquants are sold in speciality shops all over France.

Sometimes I wonder if my friends, family or you readers find it puzzling or odd or weird that I appear so happy and content and laugh so easily. How could someone who lost a spouse of 25 years bounce back so quickly. Does she ever feel sad or grieve? (This quiet month in California has given me thinking time, do you get that?) What I’ve chosen to remember and celebrate are the 15 good years. Returning to Aspen has given me that gift. I used up a lifetime of sadness and grief during Michael’s illness. There is none of that left in my tank. Plus, it’s not my nature. My good times will continue to roll, hopefully, just as they have the past two years. That is my hope for all caregivers who walk this road.

Great Egret, Fiscalini Ranch, Cambria, California

Great Egret, Fiscalini Ranch, Cambria, California

I haven’t, however, used up my fondness for cookies. In all modesty, I admit that Mary Hirsch knows her cookies. Although pies, cakes and pastries don’t tempt me, dare not get between me and a cookie. My mom’s speciality was Hermits, a spicy New England classic. When her cookie jar was empty I was partial to Archway’s crispy Windmills and, twist my arm, Oreo’s. My friend, Jane Carey, makes me Mexican Wedding Cookies but only at Christmas. In Aspen I now live a 5-minute walk away from my favorite cookie bakery. Buy two, get the third free….Peanut Butter, Molasses and Snickerdoodle. It’s a blessed Life.

Bald Eagles, Lopez Lake, California

Bald Eagles, Lopez Lake, California

Can you understand why I don’t often bake cookies? That may change with today’s French Fridays with Dorie recipe. A Croquant is a crispy morsel that doesn’t know if it’s a macaroon or meringue.They are readily available in France at boulangeries, patisseries and supermarkets. I was once in Paris with a friend who loved ice cream. Everyday she and I would walk to Île Saint-Louis where France’s well-known glacier, Berthillon’s, had a store.I would buy a Chocolate Noir ice cream cone. While every lick was heavenly, it was the little crunchy wafer stuck in the ice cream that I loved most. With all its leftover egg whites, Berthillon’s makes Croquants. Genius.

Snowy Egret, Fiscalini Ranch, Cambria, California

Snowy Egret, Fiscalini Ranch, Cambria, California

The recipe is below. Here are some tips. Unskinned hazelnuts and/or almonds are the classic nuts of choice. For fun, Dorie suggested cashews. I loved that. Chop the nuts the size of chocolate chips. NO smaller. The recipe makes 4 dozen delicious cookies.

Great Blue Heron, Moonstone Beach

Great Blue Heron, Moonstone Beach

CROQUANTS by Dorie Greenspan, Around My French Table cookbook

INGREDIENTS:

3 ½ ounces (about a cup) of nuts, coarsely chopped (I used cashews)
1¼ c. sugar
2 large egg whites
½ c. plus 1 Tbsp. flour, sifted

DIRECTIONS:

1. Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line your baking sheets with parchment paper.

2, Put the nuts and sugar in a medium mixing bowl and, using a rubber spatula, stir together. Add the egg whites and stir so the nuts are evenly coated. Add the flour and stir to blend until you have a thick mixture.

3. Measure out a teaspoonful of dough and put the little mounds on the parchment-lined baking sheets, leaving 2 inches between cookies.

4. Bake the cookies for 8-10 minutes, rotating the sheet halfway through, until puffed, crackled and nicely browned .  

5. Transfer the baking sheet to a cooling rack, and let the cookies stand for about 10 minutes, until you can easily peel them away from the parchment. Transfer the cookies to the cooling rack, and allow them to cool to room temperature.

6. Store in a dry, covered container, not in a plastic bag or plastic wrap, or they will lose their crunch. They will keep for a week.

Happy Baking.